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Rock Climbing on Telendos

Rock Climbing on Telendos

  • Rock Climbing on Telendos, The Island of Telendos, Kalymnos Travel Guide

Rock climbing

Rock climbing, Rock Climbing on Telendos, The Island of Telendos, Kalymnos Travel Guide

There is a new sector established during Eastern 2007 on the three caves above the village of Telendos. The rock is not looking as great as the first quality rock on the rest of Kalymnos, however if you climb some routes, you find it provides excellend routes of all levels.
 

There are some very steep routes on holes and small tufas inside the caves of Telendos, with vertical routes on the outside walls on a good sprinkling of holes. Ideal for climbing in the afternoon in summer.
 

Access to the caves: From the harbour, follow the well-marked footpath to the northern beaches. 100 metres after the last building (hotel), turn left and follow the blue signs for a further 20 minutes. The total time from the harbour should be around 25 mins.
 

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Climb - Sector Gymnasium

The biggest cave of Princess of Telendos (the left, upper and biggest cave) big roof, but most of the routes are outside on vertical sharp steel wall. A rock as you will never see it elsewhere, Telendian rock!
 

1. Dement - 6b 35m 10 bolts. As its french name indicates.
2. Princess - 7c 30m. An amazing overhanging voyage on a pocketed rock with elegant movement.
3. Impossible is nothing - 8b 30m 14 bolts. Varied cllimbing style in one route, dont forget the one finger pocket.
4. Un don du ciel - 7b 25m 9 bolts. Beautiful tufas and easy overhanging end, crux at the middle.
5. Chaleur - 6b 20m 10 bolts. A slight-overhanging start and finish with an easy and beautiful middle.
6. Laara Pa - 6b 20m 9 bolts. Amazing rock, steep wall, sharp for the fingers.
7. Fromage - 6b 20m 9 bolts. Same rock, same pain. This rock is perfect to grate cheese!
8. Bloody fingers - 6b 20m 8 bolts. Continuous difficulty, gloves are advised for this route.
 

Climb - Sector Barbarossa

A cave composed of very good quality routes. (The central and smaller cave).
 

1. Kapsouli - 6b 35m 10 bolts. Sharp again. At the end, it is better to go right on the more gently white corner.
2. Barbarossa - 7a 20m. A tricky crux on the red wall, then steep climbing through the caves.
3. Comandante Jorge - 7b 20m. The technical vertical wall followed by powerful climbing on tufas. Excellent route!
4. Titi - 6b 15m. Varied climbing on gentle rock.
5. Merinos - 6a 18m. Excellent face climbing.
6. Regina - 5c 20m. Good climbing on a steep sponge-like rock.
7. Summer Wine - 6a 18m. Nice wall climbing on good pockets. Awesome view!.
 

Cllimb - Sector Totem Pole

An aesthetic cave for high level climbers. (The right and lower cave with the big column resembling the 'Totem Pole').
 

1. Totem Pole - 8a 20m. Project on the left side of the 'Totem'.Very steep finish on big tufas. Unfinished.
2. Roofopoulos - 8b 20m. Free project on a very steep rock and roof.
3. Scooby Doo - 7b 20m. Easy start followed by a cruxy traverse right and a very steep and much harder final section between the tufas.
4. Viva Fidel - 6b 18m. Cool route on the steep pocketed wall.
5. Odysseas, the Donkey - 6b 18m. Steep rock for the grade, but climbing on good holds untill a trickhy final in the cave.
 

Climb - Sector for Telendian

Dedicated to the very kindly people of Telendos! (The lower sector, a small gorge)
 

1. Kane to bam - 7a 30m 10 bolts. You are not here for sleeping!
2. ET BIM - 7a 30m 11 bolts. The same but in french.
3. Fatsa karta aton levante - 5c 25m 8 bolts. The only crack of Telendos caves, finish by the slab not by the crack.
4. Helene the teacher - 6b 25m 9 bolts. Surprising route with big holds. Funny end.
5. Brutallsation - 7a 20m 7 bolts. As its French name indicates, very beautiful steep wall.
6. Gresivaudan - 6c 15m 6 bolts. A slight over-hanging beginning and easy end.
7. Mazette - 6b 30m 11 bolts. Again this amazing rock, of course, we are a Telendos.
 

Climb - Irox

A new sector on a face just 5 minutes from the sea with routes of all grades, from easy pleasure climbing to massive overhangs. Arriving at the cliffs directly by boat is a welcome change.
 

Climbing is extremely varied: the easy routes often very scraggy, whereas the difficult ones offer more athletic and juggy climbing. The best would be however, to try it out for yourself.
 

Access - Irox can be reached within 50 minutes from the harbour, following the path to Eros and then descent down close to the sea. However, Giannis the ferryman, will take you directly to the cliffs by boat, for a small fare.
 

There a so, so many different sectors to climb, the following being just a few examples.
1. Sallys boat trip - 3c
2. Primerov - 3c
3. Captain Jack - 4a
4. Pantelis sea jump - 5b
5. Cuobo - 7c. Short but powerful. Easier if you are tall!
6. Irox - 8a 20m. Steep and powerful.
7. Marmornei - 8a 20m. Bouldery start.
8. Helvet - 7a 30m. A fine steep and technical pitch.
9. Kyprios Angel - 7a 30m. Long and commitment.
10. More than mode - 7b 25m wall climbing with a bouldery crux.
11. Magma - 6b 20m. A single tufa climb. Worth the expedition to Irox, even if you come to climb this route only.
12. Xymos - 6b
13. The magic circle - 6a
14. Sole Fish - 6a
15. Swordfish - 6b
16. Hollenfieber - 7a
17. Yorkshire Pudding - 6c
18. 28 at 40 - 5c
19. The white rose = 6a 20m. A pleasant line leading up to the left side of a dubious block. Step right above it to a tricky finish.
20. Inglaton - 6c
 

Climb - Sector Pescatore.

This is a new sector, 5min after Irox, to the right.
 

Climbing: Beautiful wall with many big stalactites and tufas, 30m high, many other possibilities for hard routes in a vertical wall to the left of the tufas wall.
 

1. Amores Perros - 7c 25m. A stellar line with great technical climbing on a slightly overhanging wall. One of the best in Kalymnos.
2. Padells - 7b 20m. A tufas masterpiece.
3. OTR - 7a 25m. A sustained and technical tufas wall followed by a sharp finale.
4. Issili - 6c 20m. Technical wall with sharp holds.
5. Mafalda - 6a 15m. Beautiful small tufas.
 

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